Viña Tondonia Blanco, Gran Reserva, Bodegas R. López de Heredia, 2004

"I was very much looking forward to the 2004 Viña Tondonia Blanco Gran Reserva, the next vintage of this wine after the spectacular 2001. 2004 was a perfect climate year. This is a developed white that was matured in well-seasoned, neutral American oak barrels for 10 years in their old caves, where the wine gets pungent aromas of mushrooms, pollen, beeswax, white pepper, kerosene, cereals and something herbal (celery and even asparagus) that reminded me of the 1964. The palate is velvety and dry and super tasty, with a salty twist in the finish. It's still a baby even after years in bottle. This should age superbly in bottle. I think this is slightly better than the 2001, one of the freshest and most elegant vintages for this bottling. Bravo! 10,000 bottles were filled in November 2018. Before and after aging in barrel, the Gran Reserva wines also spend some time in oak vats."

"What a vinous white that’s reticent and full of power and depth. Aromas of butterscotch, waxed lemons, macadamia nuts, saffron and honey, and there is also something intricately smoky with roasted sweet potato. Full-bodied but there is no heft, with lots of brightness. I like the phenolic twist at the end, before a persistent finish that goes on for almost a minute. Incredible. A true beauty. This was aged for 10 years in old barrels before bottling. Drinkable now, but will age really beautifully over the next 10 to 20 years."