Tenuta San Leonardo, Arte a San Leonardo, 2019

"The cool profile of this wine is clear from the fresh and spicy aromas of red currants and blackcurrants, leafy lightness, bell peppers and leather, with hints of smoke. The complexity of the nose is supported by an elegant palate (don’t look for power here), with a structure of filigreed tannins, crisp, integrated acidity, a medium body and a long, super savory aftertaste reminiscent of dark cherries. Drinkable now, but better from 2034."

"The 2019 San Leonardo is impossible to ignore, embodying everything I love about this distinctly northern Italian Bordeaux blend. Masses of white pepper, sage, incense, sandy earth and fresh tobacco give way to dusty red currants. This is a model of elegance yet salty and savory to the core, with mineral-laden red and black fruits that flow across silky textures. The 2019 finishes classically dry with a crunchy tannic bite yet maintains an impossible freshness as savory herbal tones slowly fade. This is stunning, recalling the absolute top vintages I've ever tasted from San Leonardo."

"With the perfect amount of winter rainfall topping up the water table and a long, warm (but not too hot) summer, it was evident that this looked like a perfect harvest.  Classical winemaking is followed by 24 months of maturation in 1, 2 and 3-year-old barrels before bottling, and then it is released after a further two years of bottle-ageing.  While I have had the pleasure of drinking old vintages of San Leonardo (I remember a stellar 2004), and I can attest to its ability to age slowly and confidently, I was spellbound by the deliciousness of this newly released 2019 vintage.  It is stunningly lush and smooth with joyous freshness, which comes in early on the palate.  I love wines that taste unique, those with clearly defined hallmarks that come from their precise place on our planet.  The Alpine climate ensures that while the grapes are physiologically ripe, thanks to the bright sunshine, the acidity and vivacity on the palate are arresting, thanks to the cool nights.  This dramatic counterpoint of sleekness and freshness is enchanting.  Trying to track down this wine is often tricky (Honest Grapes is a reliable source and they stock magnums, too), but if you find some, you must buy it immediately.  While many of the world’s great vineyards must adapt their thinking on account of relentless climate change, San Leonardo appears untouched, tasting as elegant and sophisticated as ever."