Spectator Wine Club - Rising Stars & Unsung Heroes of Burgundy

There is nothing so cheering as the first glass of the morning when you’re feeling what my mother used to term as low in the tripes, and the 2022 Guillaume Vrignaud Petit Chablis (1) put instant springs in our step and smiles on our faces. It’s the perfect mid-morning uplifter. It’s not too dry and it’s not too lean, as many Petit Chablis can be, it’s just lovely. Guillaume Vrignaud owns some 29 ha of vines around Fontenay-près-Chablis and this is made from organically-farmed grapes grown in the Chemin des Chaumes vineyard, undergoing complete malo-lactic fermentation before resting on the lees in stainless steel. Apple-fresh and lively with hints of acacia honey, it’s all but perfect. £18.50 down from £19.50.

The 2022 Meurgey-Croses Viré Clessé, Vieilles Vignes (2) kept us grinning very happily. From the negociant business of star winemaker Pierre Meurgey (former CEO of much-lauded Maison Champy), it’s an absolute peach and darn good value too. Made from carefully selected, old vine Chardonnay (up to 90 years old), it sees only old oak, so intent is PM on pursuing purity and freshness. Dense, rich, citrusy, apple-y and appetisingly salty, it’s a great food wine as we discovered and deeply moreish. £21.80 down from £22.80.

The 2020 Domaine de Montille Bourgogne Chardonnay (3) comes from one of the most celebrated estates in Volnay, Côte de Beaune, now in the hands of the family’s ninth generation of winemakers. Tom H loves this producer and it’s easy to see why. Made from fruit drawn from vineyards in Puligny-Montrachet and Monthélie, it’s aged on the lees in 600-litre barrels and has weight, texture and deliciously herbal, honeyed citrus/melon fruit. £25.80 down from £26.80.

The 2021 Jane Eyre Fleurie (4), from the delightfully named Australian former hairdresser turned stellar Burgundian winemaker, is a fine introduction to the joys of top-class Beaujolais. Jane’s Burgundies, Beaujolais and Mornington Peninsula wines are much loved by the critics and Honest Grapes have done British wine lovers a huge favour introducing them to the UK. Fresh, jammy, juicy and concentrated, with a savoury touch to its sophisticatedly dry finish, this 100 per cent Gamay is both elegant and accessible and very cheering. £28.80 down from £29.80.

The 2018 Pierre Meurgey Savigny-lès-Beaune ‘Les Bas Liards’ (5) from the aforementioned Pierre Meurgey’s own clay/limestone vineyards, is lush and flowery with intense cherry fruit and touches of vanilla and even violet cream. I love expressive Pinot like this and so, it must be said, does Mrs Ray, who sipped, then gulped and just sat and beamed. £34.80 down from £35.80.

Finally, the 2019 Eric Boigelot Monthélie 1er Cru ‘Clos des Champs Fulliot’ (6), from one of Tom’s most exciting of discoveries: the young vinous genius that is Eric Boigelot, recently picked out by Wine Advocate as a winemaker to watch. Made from sustainably farmed Pinot Noir grown in a protected, walled clos, it’s full of fresh bramble fruit, spice and herbs and the silkiest of tannins. If you love impeccably made, fully mature Burgundian Pinot, you’ll love this. £42.30 down from £43.30.

The mixed case has two bottles of each wine and delivery, as ever is free.

Jonathan Ray for the Spectator Wine Club