Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru 'La Richemone', Domaine des Lambrays, 2023

"A dark ruby colour. The bouquet is not quite all apparent but suggests a vast intensity of fruit and a fair amount of spice. The fruit is nearer black than red and the whole bunch spice is really quite prominent but once you delve past these, the second half of the palate delivers the absolute majesty of this great vineyard. The slightest hint of fresh chocolate appears far back. One can see the volume of the vintage alongside the exceptional class of the vineyard and some pretty skilled winemaking. 4/5 stars"

"There is almost a hectare of predominantly 99-year-old vines (Lambrays effectively owns half of the appellation), and they made a very Nuit-sian wine in 2023. Robust on the attack with broad, sinewy tannins that turn crispy on the heroically long finish, the supporting acidity stays in the wings. The fruit is much darker and more densely ripe than in 2022 with a gaggle of blackberries and black plums scented with North African spices and charred firewood. Warm iron minerality and whole bunch spice oozes into the finale. Give this upwards of a decade."