Montagny 'Les Thilles', Domaine Philippe Colin, 2022
Montagny 'Les Thilles', Domaine Philippe Colin, 2022
- 75cl
- 14%
- White Still
- Chardonnay
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Optimal drinking window: 2026 - 2030
Philippe Colin made his name in Chassagne-Montrachet, but this little excursion into Montagny shows the same obsessive hand applied to altogether leaner territory. 'Les Thilles' is pure Chardonnay from the Côte Chalonnaise, a region that has long lived in the shadow of its grander Côte d'Or neighbours but increasingly makes a strong case for itself at a fraction of the price.
"Clean and tangy with impressive energy, white fruit, especially apples, medium plus bodied and some length."
Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy (2023)
Expect something taut and mineral rather than plush: citrus, white flowers, a flinty backbone, and the kind of bright acidity that makes you reach for the next sip rather than ponder the first.
Right now the citrus and blossom notes are front and centre, fresh and forward. Over the next couple of years the wine will fold in a touch more nutty, savoury depth as the primary fruit softens. It should reach a lovely plateau between 2027 and 2030.
Tasting Notes
AppearancePale lemon-gold with a faint green tinge at the rim.
NoseLemon zest and white blossom sit above a flinty, chalky undertone, with a faint touch of toasted hazelnut from careful oak handling.
PalateBright and linear, with green apple and citrus pith carried along by a distinctly saline, stony thread. The acidity is the star here, keeping everything taut and refreshing rather than broad.
FinishCrisp and mineral, with a lingering nutty, chalky edge.
Overall impressionA precise, sharply drawn white Burgundy that punches well above its appellation's modest reputation.
Food Pairings
In the Chalonnaise, this sort of wine turns up alongside quenelles de brochet or a simple grilled trout from the Doubs, the acidity cutting through butter sauces with ease. Local Époisses or a younger, milder Comté make good company too, the cheese's richness meeting the wine's chalky cut head-on. We'd happily pour it with oysters, a classic Burgundian snail preparation, or simply a roast chicken finished with tarragon.
We think this wine would go well with
Serve at 11-12°C, properly chilled but not numbing. No decanting required, though opening ten minutes before pouring lets the aromatics settle. A standard white Burgundy glass with a reasonably generous bowl will do the job nicely.
Montagny sits on limestone and marl soils in the Côte Chalonnaise, south of the more fabled Côte de Beaune, with vineyards perched on gentle slopes that catch good sun while retaining the freshness that defines the appellation. 'Les Thilles' benefits from this chalky backbone, which lends the wine its saline, stony edge rather than overt richness. The cooler mesoclimate here, compared with Meursault or Puligny, keeps acidity bright and yields wines of real tension.
Montagny AOC is exclusively white, made entirely from Chardonnay, and covers five communes in the southern Côte Chalonnaise. It sits a notch below the grand crus of the Côte d'Or in prestige but offers genuine limestone character and increasing quality from growers willing to put in the work. Premier Cru status here is awarded on potential alcohol level rather than specific vineyard classification, a quirk that confuses many and explains why savvy buyers look to the producer's name, like Colin's, rather than the label alone.
The 2022 growing season in Burgundy began with a worryingly dry spring that had vignerons checking soil moisture levels weekly, followed by a summer that alternated between intense heat and welcome rainfall. The vines handled the stress remarkably well, producing smaller berries with concentrated flavours, though yields dropped significantly across both the Côte d'Or and Chablis. Harvest began earlier than usual, with many producers picking in late August under bright skies.
What emerged from the cellars shows a vintage of surprising finesse given the challenging conditions. The Pinot Noirs display vivid fruit and firm tannins without the jammy weight you might expect from a hot year, whilst the Chardonnays retained their mineral backbone alongside ripe stone fruit flavours. We're finding the village-level wines particularly compelling right now, drinking beautifully with just a year or two of bottle age, though the premier and grand crus will reward patience until the late 2020s.
FAQs
What does this wine taste like?
Taut, citrus-driven, and chalky, with white blossom aromatics and a saline, mineral finish rather than overt richness.
When should I drink this wine?
It's drinking well from 2026 and will hold nicely until around 2030, no urgent rush but no reason to wait either.
What food should I pair it with?
Classic Burgundian fare: grilled fish, quenelles, roast chicken, or a young Comté. Oysters work brilliantly too.
How should I serve it?
Chill to 11-12°C and pour into a standard white Burgundy glass. No decanting necessary.
Is this worth cellaring?
Not for the long haul, but two to three years will add welcome depth without losing the wine's lovely freshness.
How does Montagny compare to other white Burgundies?
Leaner and chalkier than Meursault, less perfumed than Puligny, but offering real limestone character at a far friendlier price.
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