Meursault Les Criots, Domaine du Pavillon, 2020
Meursault Les Criots, Domaine du Pavillon, 2020
- 75cl
- 13.5%
- White Still
- Chardonnay
- Organic
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Optimal drinking window: Now - 2036
About Meursault Les Criots, Domaine du Pavillon, 2020
Maison Albert Bichot has been passed down for 6 generations since 1831 and today it manages individual Domaines rather than housing all sites under one property.
Domaine Long-Depaquit in Chablis, Domaine du Pavillon in Pommard and the jewel in the crown Domaine du Clos Frantin in NSG are the organic Domaines.
Having supported the team for a number of vintages we have been able to acquire decent allocations across all three and are thrilled to be able to offer their top wines.
"From a limestone rich lieu-dit almost on the northern border with Volnay, this is a super site for Meursault and in 2020 the wine really shines. Like Baby Bear’s porridge – everything is just right: Orchard and citrus fruits plus a little spice on the nose, then you get the intensity of concentration of the vintage and plenty of ripeness and mid-palate density, but also cooler fruit and a fresh salty vein of acidity. Really pleasurable now, but will doubtless evolve with another year or so in bottle."
Tom Harrow, Head Wine Guru
Currently drinking beautifully with its primary orchard and citrus fruits still vibrant, but this wine has the structure for much longer ageing. Over the next two to three years, the oak will integrate further and secondary honeyed complexity will begin to emerge. By 2030, expect the wine to show classic Meursault richness with developed nutty, brioche-like flavours while retaining that crucial mineral spine. The limestone terroir will ensure this wine continues to evolve gracefully until at least 2035, with the possibility of longer cellaring for those with patience.
What the critics say:
"Powerful mid yellow. The bouquet combines rich sunshine fruit with something cooler, fresher, stonier. Interesting mix of ripenesses in the fruit on the palate, some bacon fat, some yellow fruit, some salinity"
Tasting Notes
AppearancePowerful mid-yellow with golden highlights, showing the concentration of the 2020 vintage.
NoseThe bouquet combines rich orchard fruits with something distinctly cooler and stonier underneath. We find citrus brightness alongside subtle spice, with an intriguing mix of ripeness levels that speaks to the vineyard's complexity. There's bacon fat richness from the lees work, balanced by fresh mineral lift.
PalateThe vintage's concentration shows immediately, with plenty of mid-palate density and ripeness. Yellow fruit flavours mingle with that distinctive salty vein of acidity that marks Les Criots out from other Meursault sites. The texture is generous but never heavy, with limestone minerality providing structure and length.
FinishLong and saline, with the limestone terroir having the final word over the vintage's natural richness.
Overall impressionA perfectly balanced Meursault that captures both the vintage's generosity and the site's distinctive mineral character.
Food Pairings
In Burgundy, this would be the natural partner for poulet de Bresse roasted with herbs, or the local speciality of escargots de Bourgogne swimming in garlic and parsley butter. The wine's mineral backbone and rich texture make it perfect with the region's famous époisses cheese, served with crusty pain de campagne. Pike-perch from the Saône, simply prepared with butter and white wine, would showcase the wine's elegance, while coq au vin blanc celebrates the marriage of local Chardonnay with Burgundian cuisine.
We think this wine would go well with
Serve at 12-14°C to allow the mineral complexity to shine while preserving the wine's natural freshness. No need to decant, but do open thirty minutes before serving to let the wine breathe and show its full character. Use proper Burgundy glasses with a generous bowl to concentrate the aromatics. If you're lucky enough to have a proper wine cellar, store on its side in a cool, dark place.
Les Criots sits on limestone-rich soils near the northern border with Volnay, providing the mineral backbone that defines this lieu-dit. The limestone subsoil offers excellent drainage while retaining enough moisture to support slow, steady ripening. This geological foundation creates wines with distinctive salinity and stoniness, balancing the natural richness of Meursault with a cooler, more restrained character that sets Les Criots apart from the village's more opulent sites.
Meursault produces some of Burgundy's most celebrated white wines, known for their rich, honeyed character and remarkable longevity. While lacking grand cru vineyards, the village compensates with exceptional premier cru sites like Perrières and Genevrières, plus outstanding lieu-dits such as Les Criots. Meursault wines typically show more weight and texture than their Puligny neighbours, with a distinctive mineral core that comes from the limestone-rich soils. The appellation's reputation rests on its ability to combine power with elegance, creating wines that age gracefully for decades.
We'll be honest: 2020 in Burgundy was a vintage that kept everyone on their toes. A warm, dry spring brought early budbreak, then summer turned properly scorching with temperatures hitting 40°C in August. The saving grace came from perfectly timed August rains that rescued the vines from serious drought stress, followed by ideal September weather that allowed for unhurried picking. Yields were mercifully normal after several years of frost-ravaged harvests, and crucially, the heat never tipped into the jammy territory that can plague warmer vintages here.
What emerged were wines with surprising freshness despite the heat, showing ripe fruit balanced by good acidity and lovely mineral precision. The reds have more immediate charm than the structured 2019s, with silky tannins and generous Pinot Noir character, whilst the whites display beautiful richness without losing that crystalline Burgundian tension we adore. This isn't a legendary vintage like 2005 or 2010, but it's thoroughly delicious and more approachable in youth than many Burgundy vintages. The village wines are drinking beautifully now, Premier Crus are just hitting their stride, and the Grands Crus will reward patience for another five to ten years.
FAQs
What does this wine taste like?
Rich orchard fruits and citrus with a distinctive salty mineral backbone, showing both the generosity of Meursault and the cool precision of the Les Criots vineyard.
When should I drink this wine?
Drinking beautifully now but will reward patience, evolving gracefully until at least 2035 as secondary complexity develops.
What food should I pair with this wine?
Perfect with roasted chicken, fish in creamy sauces, or aged cheeses like époisses - the wine's mineral structure handles rich foods brilliantly.
How should I serve this wine?
Serve at 12-14°C in proper Burgundy glasses, opening thirty minutes before serving to let the wine show its full character.
Is this wine worth cellaring?
Absolutely - the limestone terroir and vintage concentration give this wine excellent ageing potential, developing honeyed complexity while retaining freshness.
What makes Les Criots special in Meursault?
Les Criots sits on limestone-rich soils near Volnay, giving wines a distinctive mineral salinity that balances Meursault's natural richness with cooler, more restrained character.
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