Clos Des Lambrays Grand Cru, Domaine des Lambrays, 2023

"There are 11 cuvées, all "reunited", as Jacques Devauges insists versus "blended", in the final wine. A remarkable 75% of the vines were planted in 1935 and 1898—the latter being the first post-phylloxera generation of vines. Another 22% were planted in 1980 and the rest planted in 2000. The 2023 is fabulously expressive. It has brawn, energy and patina—all the elements of a truly world-class wine. The architecture is imposing yet gracefully balanced. For every lick of tannic tug or spark of acidity, there is a countering pulse of pristinely ripe black fruits. It's not just a drink; it's an experience. Give this at least ten to 15 years, preferably far longer. This is one of my wines of the vintage."

"Here there is the richness of mulberry fruit and spice on the aroma. But the palate is more refined than the nose suggested. So very aromatic. A perfumed, lightly purple palate, which carries to a lingering, floral, and slightly exotic finish. It is intense, very finely textured and delicate, yet the palate is expansive. Wafts on a long—so very long—and aromatic finish. As Jacques remarks, “Something happens when you put the wine together.” He is making a very different Clos des Lambrays from that of his immediate predecessors. Now Clos des Lambrays is intense yet delicate, precise and finely textured. A wine with great aromatic persistence."