Brunello di Montalcino, Patrizia Cencioni, 2019
Brunello di Montalcino, Patrizia Cencioni, 2019
- 75cl
- 14%
- Red Still
- Sangiovese
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Optimal drinking window: Now - 2040
This female star-studded cast of winemakers is an admirable family-run operation that dates back to 1989 when life force of the estate, Patrizia, decided she wanted to make Brunello. What was once a deteriorating property is now a winery buzzing with life and passion. Beyond the hectares of land freckled with olive groves are Sangiovese vines dedicated to producing Brunello di Montalcino.
They aim for the highest quality, with all vineyards meant for Brunello production, whilst they also produce a hidden gem Rosso here that is effectively a "baby Brunello" for early drinking. The vineyards can be found in the southeast at a high altitude with soil composed of volcanic rock and compacted clay (or Galestro). They are harvested by hand and then fermented with indigenous yeasts.
What the critics say:
"The nose is cool and salty, but with a softness, like new leather or rose petals in a clay pot, and the energy of wild fennel and citrus. On the palate, cherries and strawberries bring out a warmer citrus element, while balance comes from solid yet flexible tannins that fortify continuing earthy, metallic notes."
"The 2019 Brunello di Montalcino is distinctly savory with a burst of crushed wild berries, cedar and worn leather. This is silky and enveloping with polished red and blue fruits that swirl throughout and tactile mineral tones, all guided by vibrant acidity. A web of crunchy tannins lingers as the 2019 finishes long and staining yet is also remarkably fresh. "
The vineyards sit in Montalcino's southeast at high altitude, benefiting from volcanic rock soils mixed with compacted clay known locally as galestro. This combination provides excellent drainage whilst retaining enough moisture for the vines, and the volcanic elements contribute the distinctive mineral backbone that characterises the wines. The elevated position ensures good diurnal temperature variation, helping preserve acidity and aromatic intensity in the Sangiovese grapes.
Brunello di Montalcino is Italy's most prestigious expression of Sangiovese, requiring 100% Sangiovese Grosso and a minimum five years' ageing before release. The DOCG covers the hillsides around the medieval town of Montalcino in southern Tuscany, where the combination of altitude, varied soils, and warm climate creates wines of power and longevity. Unlike Chianti Classico to the north, Brunello tends towards greater concentration and structure, with the best examples capable of decades of cellaring.
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