Brunello di Montalcino 'Filo di Seta', Riserva, Castello Romitorio, 2019

"This bottle is distinguished by its black label, and the wine has not been made since 2016. It's great to see it back (albeit in a small production of 2,666 bottles). The Castello Romitorio 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Filo di Seta delivers savory barbecue spice, tarry smoke and black fruit over full-bodied, big-boned texture. However, within that brooding darkness is a complex and modern wine that remains fluid in the glass as it shifts between various fruit and oak-driven aromas. It reveals softly polished edges over a firm backbone with chalky tannins."

"A striking and intense specimen, the second ever Riserva release from the estate’s Filo di Seta vineyard launches with clove-studded cherry, sarsaparilla and candied orange zest. Ageing in tonneaux (mostly used) confers subtle roasted and incense accents. Broad and expansive, this delivers wet leaves and porcini mushroom to offset fruit sweetness. There is also a pleasantly puckering tartness to the acidity. Ultra suede-like in texture, with a crisp tannic bite on the backend, it rebounds with zesty citrus. Alas, only 2,575 bottles produced."