Chambertin 'Clos de Bèze' Grand Cru, Domaine Armand Rousseau, 2023
Chambertin 'Clos de Bèze' Grand Cru, Domaine Armand Rousseau, 2023
- 75cl
- 13.5%
- Red Still
- Pinot Noir
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Optimal drinking window: 2033 - 2055
Est. delivery in 2027
There are only a handful of wines in Burgundy that carry the full weight of the region's mythology, and Clos de Bèze is unquestionably one of them. Armand Rousseau's parcel in this ancient, walled grand cru — historically ranked above even Chambertin itself — produces something that manages to be both monumental and extraordinarily fine-boned.
The 2023 vintage, a warm and sunny year that delivered ripe, generous fruit across the Côte de Nuits, nevertheless shows the precision and restraint that is Rousseau's signature: red fruit rather than black, mineral rather than opulent, silk rather than velvet.
What the critics say:
"The 2023 Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze Grand Cru has a transcendent bouquet with a cornucopia of red berry fruit, hints of pressed flowers, forest floor and a tinge of oyster shell. Stunning delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with finely chiseled tannins and more tension and energy than the Chambertin. This is also lighter on its feet, with a pixelated finish that fans out gloriously. Heavenly. "
"Possibly an even brighter and more vigorous purple. Deeply heady but in no way overdone. Just a superbly welcoming sensuality. Such a gracious and graceful whole. This is a lovely of wines range from Rousseau this year, very much in their own classical style."
The Clos de Bèze sits immediately north of Chambertin on a gentle, east-facing slope at around 280 metres, on a narrow band of Bajocian limestone bedrock overlaid with thin, iron-rich, brown clay-limestone soils. The thinness of the topsoil forces the vines' roots deep into the rock, which is widely credited with giving the wine its characteristic mineral tension and structural precision. The slight elevation and good drainage mean the site retains freshness even in warm years, which is evident in the 2023's line and length.
Chambertin Clos de Bèze is one of Gevrey-Chambertin's nine grands crus and, historically, the most senior of them all — it predates Chambertin itself, having been planted by the monks of the Abbey of Bèze in the 7th century. Unlike its famous neighbour, Clos de Bèze may legally be sold either under its own name or as Chambertin, though never the reverse. The appellation covers just under 16 hectares across a small group of owners, Rousseau being among the most celebrated. The wines are generally a touch more refined and floral than Chambertin proper, with a particular iron-and-violet character that sets them apart from the broader, more muscular style of the grands crus to the south.
The 2023 growing season in Burgundy unfolded like a cautionary tale about climate change, then pulled off a last-minute redemption that left everyone rather stunned. After a warm, early spring pushed budbreak ahead of schedule, the vines endured a thoroughly miserable summer of persistent rain and cool temperatures that had growers muttering darkly about rot and dilution. Just when things looked dire, September arrived with glorious sunshine and dry winds that concentrated the fruit and saved the harvest—though not without some frantic sorting in the cellars.
What emerged from this meteorological rollercoaster are wines that wear their vintage on their sleeve: Pinot Noirs with bright, singing acidity and red fruit that feels almost crystalline in its purity, whilst the Chardonnays show remarkable tension and mineral drive. The reds are drinking beautifully now if you fancy immediate pleasure, but we suspect the better villages and premiers crus will reward patience over the next decade. It's not a powerhouse vintage, but there's something genuinely charming about these wines—they remind us why we fell for Burgundy in the first place.
OUR GROWERS
Domaine Armand Rousseau
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