Auxey-Duresses, Les Ecusseaux, Domaine Yves Boyer-Martenot, 2021
Auxey-Duresses, Les Ecusseaux, Domaine Yves Boyer-Martenot, 2021
- 75cl
- 13%
- Red Still
- Pinot Noir
- Organic
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Optimal drinking window: Now - 2033
This 4th generation estate is now run by Vincent Boyer, whose unique take on Meursault is already making serious waves in the Cote d'Or.
Vincent's ambition has always been to capture the heart of the village and let the fruit do the talking, and with this magnificent set of 2020s he is very much succeeding! The domaine practices organic farming, uses only indigenous yeasts and minimal new oak, while every winter the wines ferment in either cement vats or 900 litre oak foudres, preserving the integrity of the fruit. The wines mature gently at cooler temperatures and thus they require less filtration and fining.
Vincent is one of the rising stars of Burgundy and his tenacity is evident in his sumptuous yet impeccably balanced wines that provide a fresh perspective on Meursault. This estate is truly a hidden gem of Burgundy.
In 2026, this is already drinking with real confidence — the 2021 vintage in Burgundy produced wines with excellent natural acidity that are approachable young without sacrificing longevity. Over the next two to three years the primary fruit will integrate further and a more complex, nutty, almost honeyed secondary character will begin to emerge. The wine should hit its stride somewhere around 2028-2030, when texture and mineral depth will be in full conversation. We would not push it much beyond 2033, at which point the freshness that defines it may start to fade.
Tasting Notes
AppearancePale gold with a bright, lively rim and excellent clarity.
NoseThere is a real freshness here: ripe orchard fruit, a squeeze of citrus, and something flinty and cool underneath that speaks directly to the limestone. Gentle white flower and toasted almond add a little flesh without tipping into the rich, buttery register some expect from this corner of Burgundy.
PalatePrecise and focused, with a satisfying tension between the wine's natural generosity and its mineral spine. The fruit is ripe without being heavy, the oak entirely invisible — Vincent's foudre approach keeps everything clean and direct. Lovely weight through the mid-palate, then a crisp, saline pull towards the finish.
FinishLong, chalk-edged, and refreshing — it leaves you reaching for another sip rather than sitting back satisfied.
Overall impressionA village Burgundy that punches well above its postcode, made by someone who clearly has something to prove.
Food Pairings
In the villages around Auxey and Meursault, this kind of wine is the natural companion to jambon persillé — that gorgeous pressed ham and parsley terrine that appears on every bistro table in the Côte de Beaune. Locals would also pour it alongside a gratin dauphinois, where the wine's acidity cuts through the cream with real purpose. A simple roast chicken with tarragon butter would be the obvious Sunday choice, or a plate of Époisses at room temperature if you are feeling brave. The wine's texture makes it equally at home with freshwater fish — trout from the Ouche is the local answer.
We think this wine would go well with
Serve at around 12-13°C — cold enough to preserve its freshness, warm enough to let the texture open up. No need to decant, though giving it twenty minutes in the glass before diving in will reward you. A wide-bowled white Burgundy glass is the right choice: it gives the wine room to breathe and directs the aromatics where they need to go.
Les Ecusseaux sits on the slopes of Auxey-Duresses, a small valley tucked behind Meursault and Monthélie where the Côte de Beaune folds inward. The vineyard sits on Jurassic limestone with a significant clay content, giving the wine both mineral backbone and a rounder, more generous texture than you might find further upslope. The aspect is largely east-facing, which keeps the site cooler and preserves freshness through even warm vintages like 2021. That combination of chalky limestone and clay is precisely what gives village-level Auxey its quiet authority.
Auxey-Duresses is one of Burgundy's most under-sung villages, sitting in a side valley off the main Côte de Beaune with Meursault as its more glamorous neighbour. The appellation produces both red and white, though it is the whites that increasingly attract attention, offering Meursault-adjacent richness at a fraction of the price. Village-level wines like Les Ecusseaux can display impressive depth and longevity without the weight of a famous name attached. It remains one of the best-value entry points into serious white Burgundy.
The 2021 growing season in Burgundy started badly and got worse before pulling off one of wine's great escapes. Spring frost in April devastated vineyards across the Côte d'Or, followed by a summer that alternated between biblical downpours and scorching heat. Many producers lost 50% or more of their crop to the frost alone, then watched hail batter what remained in some unlucky villages. By August, with rot creeping through rain-soaked vineyards, even the most optimistic vignerons were writing off the vintage.
What emerged from this chaos surprised everyone: wines with remarkable freshness and purity, if you can find them. The tiny yields meant those grapes that survived were intensely concentrated, while the September sunshine saved the day with perfect ripening conditions. We find the reds show beautiful fruit clarity without heaviness, drinking with an immediacy that makes them irresistible now but promising a decade or more of evolution. The whites are particularly stunning, with a mineral intensity that cuts through their richness. Yes, there's not much 2021 Burgundy about, and yes, it's expensive, but this is one of those vintages where disaster bred greatness.
FAQs
What does this wine taste like?
Fresh and precise rather than rich and buttery — ripe orchard fruit and citrus over a cool, flinty mineral core, with a saline finish. The oak is entirely invisible thanks to the large foudre ageing, so what you get is pure, clean Chardonnay with real character.
When is the best time to drink it?
It is drinking well now and will continue to do so until around 2030-2033. The 2021 vintage gave naturally high acidity, which means there is no urgency, but equally no need to wait — open it tonight and you will not be disappointed.
What food should I serve it with?
Roast chicken with tarragon butter is the classic match, but it will work equally well with gratin dauphinois, jambon persillé, or a fillet of trout. The wine's texture and acidity mean it handles rich, creamy dishes without being overwhelmed by them.
How should I serve it?
Around 12-13°C is ideal. No need to decant — just give it twenty minutes in a wide-bowled white Burgundy glass and it will open up beautifully on its own terms.
Is Auxey-Duresses worth taking seriously?
Absolutely. It sits directly behind Meursault and shares much of the same limestone geology, but without the famous name attached the wines are far more modestly priced. Boyer-Martenot's Les Ecusseaux is a strong argument that you do not need a premier cru label to find serious white Burgundy.
Why choose this over a village Meursault?
Value, mainly — but not only. Auxey-Duresses at this level from a grower as precise as Vincent Boyer offers the same mineral freshness and texture as many village Meursaults at a noticeably lower price. If you know what you are looking for, this is exactly the kind of wine that makes Burgundy endlessly rewarding to explore.
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