As Burgundy enthusiasts anticipate the release of the 2023 vintage, the critical voices of Neal Martin, Jasper Morris, and Jancis Robinson (with reviews by Matthew Hayes) provide valuable insights into the wines’ character and potential. While the vintage presents certain challenges, there’s consensus that 2023 showcases the skill of its vignerons, offering wines of charm, balance, and surprising complexity.
We will continue to update this as more critics publish their impressions. In the meantime please have a read below of what the main critics are saying about the fascinating 2023 vintage.
Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy
Jasper Morris highlights 2023 as a vintage of contrasts, marked by favourable growing conditions and balanced alcohol levels. For the Côte de Nuits, he notes:
"There were few wines hovering close to 14.5% and many domaines remained comfortably under 14% throughout. The rain had a beneficial de-stressing effect but occasionally some wines tasted a little less concentrated, though overt dilution was rarely to be found."
Nuits-Saint-Georges stands out:
"2023 presents a bright contrast to 2024, where Nuits was probably the worst-hit sector of all the Côte d’Or. The crop was plentiful in 2023 and with excellent wines which ripened well."
In Beaune, Morris sees a divergence between whites and reds. On the whites:
"Expect delicious and juicy white wines, without evident dilution, but probably not destined for the very long haul... By the time I finished the tasting program, I had become more enthusiastic – in some cellars this clearly really is a great vintage."
For the reds:
"Like the whites, they are typically delicious, fruit-forward wines for medium-term ageing... One might have expected some parallel with 2017, the last vintage of a similar size, but I have never had that feeling while tasting. We are really enjoying 2017s now, but 2023 has more personality."
Neal Martin, Vinous
Neal Martin’s verdict on 2023 is resoundingly positive, dubbing it “a vignerons’ vintage” that rewards careful craftsmanship. He describes it as:
"A vintage so pleasurable from barrel—pleasure that its best growers will translate into bottle."
On the reds, Martin highlights their immediate appeal and potential longevity:
"These Pinots are going to be very tempting in their youth... they also have the balance and energy to reward the dwindling numbers who uphold the lost art of cellaring."
He compares the reds to other vintages:
"You could argue that the 2023s share some consanguinity with the 2017s—a vintage that I have appreciated more as time passes—yet I wager the 2023s are better than that."
For the whites, he notes their balance and terroir-driven character:
"The whites are not as obviously tropical, like some 2018s and 2020s. More accurately, they lean into that style without veering too far away from traditional white Burgundy."
Chassagne-Montrachet also earns praise:
"Chassagne-Montrachet continues to impress thanks to the cluster of talent that has emerged there in recent years."
Jancis Robinson MW (and Matthew Hayes)
Matthew Hayes, writing for Jancis Robinson, affirms the quality of the 2023 vintage:
"2023 seems generally to be on target and on quality."
Jancis herself observes the vintage’s overall charm and balance:
"Having tasted a limited range of 2023 burgundies, so far I can report that the wines are generally pretty good: charming with signs of dilution in only a few instances and, perhaps surprisingly, with sufficient acidity to suggest a reasonably long life, too."
For value hunters, Robinson advises:
"With 2023s, and in fact in general, the wisest advice for those trying to squeeze value out of the Côte d’Or is to seek out a combination of the less famous appellations and the most adept producers in them."
Closing Thoughts
Burgundy’s 2023 vintage underscores the importance of winemaking skill and vineyard management. While the wines are approachable in youth, they possess the structure and balance to reward cellaring. Critics agree that this is a vintage to explore deeply, with many gems to be found across both celebrated and lesser-known appellations.